Everything you Need to Know about Backstitching, Machine and Hand

Backstitching is an important part of every sewing project as it helps keep seams strong and durable, as well as adding longevity to your clothing. Use our guide to learn how to backstitch with a sewing machine or for hand sewing. 

Backstitch - What is it?

Backstitching refers to two different types of stitching, depending on whether it is done by hand or by machine.

Backstitching by machine is when you stitch backward over the previous stitching to secure the ends. Without backstitching, seams can unravel at the start and end points of a seam.

Backstitch also refers to a type of hand stitching that is worked backward. Hand backstitching is strong and flexible.

Most times, when you see the term “backstitch” in modern sewing instructions, it refers to the machine stitching definition.

Examples of a Backstitch

On the left, backstitching done by machine. On the right, backstitching done by hand.

  • WHEN DO YOU USE IT?

    • Backstitch every time you sew a seam by machine. The only time you don’t backstitch is when you’re planning to remove the line of stitching later, for example, when basting or gathering. Permanent stitching is always backstitched; temporary stitching is not.
    • Backstitching by hand is used when sewing seams by hand. It’s the strongest hand stitch! Before sewing machines, this was the most frequently used stitch for sewing seams in clothing. Hand backstitching is still used in couture sewing. It is rarely used in home sewing due to the introduction of home sewing machines.

  • TIPS + NOTES

    • When machine backstitching, if you don’t want visible backstitches at the ends of your stitching, you can zero stitch instead. To do this, start by changing the stitch length on your machine to zero. Make about five machine stitches in place to secure the row of stitching. Your machine may also have a button for a zero stitch. It is great to use when you are topstitching in a visible area, especially when sewing with a contrast thread colour. We like substituting zero stitching for backstitching anywhere that backstitching would be unsightly.
    • Another way to secure the threads by machine is to stop stitching without backstitching, clip the threads but leave long thread tails and remove the piece from the sewing machine. Use a pin to pull the top thread tail to the underside of the fabric, then tie both thread tails in a knot to secure. Again, this option is helpful when your backstitch would be easily seen, like topstitching a patch pocket or applique.

HOW TO BACKSTITCH BY MACHINE

Before you begin sewing, locate the backstitch function on your sewing machine.

Most modern machines have a backstitch button that has to be pressed down to keep the machine sewing backward; when you release the button, it will sew forward again.

Older machines might have a backstitch switch or lever that allows you to switch between sewing forward and sewing in reverse.

For machines of all ages, the backstitch function is often labeled on the machine as a big u-turn arrow, showing the machine sewing in reverse.

Check your sewing machine’s manual if you aren’t sure.

SEWING A BACKSTITCH ON A MACHINE

Starting at the top of your seam, sew about five stitches forward, then press the backstitch button and sew four or five stitches backward. Release the button and sew the rest of the seam normally.

ENDING A SEAM WITH A BACKSTITCH

When you reach the end of your seam, sew right to the edge of the fabric, press the backstitch button and sew five stitches in reverse, then continue sewing to the edge of your fabric. Trim the thread tails on each end of your seam.

HOW TO BACKSTITCH BY HAND

Set up your handsewing project by gathering your supplies; thread, needle and scissors. Thread a handsewing needle with thread. Tie both ends of the thread in a knot so you’re working with a doubled thread.

In the photos, we're using embroidery thread and a big needle, so it’s easy to see. For your project, stitches will be smaller and less noticeable with regular sewing thread.

SEWING A BACKSTITCH BY HAND

Working from right to left, take a small stitch in the seam and bring the needle through to the right side of the fabric.

Insert the needle back into the starting point, slide it under the first stitch and bring the needle through the right side, one stitch ahead of the previous stitch. Repeat until you reach the end. There should be no space between the stitches.

REVERSE SIDE OF HAND BACKSTITCH

Here’s what it will look like on the opposite side of your project.

You’re essentially sewing loops of thread around the multiple layers of fabric to hold them together. Here you can see the loops of thread.

YOU CAN DO IT! MORE TIPS

You can do this! Backstitching is an important technique that ensures your seams stay together and increases the lifespan of your project. No one wants unraveling seams on their new blouse!

If you're new to backstitching, its always a good idea to do a few test runs before jumping into your project. This helps you get used to how your machine's backstitching button works and working on a test scrap allows for experimentation, success and mistakes before using your good fabric.