Tips for Outstanding Topstitching

Topstitching - What is it?

Topstitching is a row of stitching that’s intentionally visible on the right side of your garment.

Since this line of stitching is visible, it's often a good time to be creative. Topstitching can be done in a thread colour that matches and blends in with your garment, or pick a contrasting thread colour to highlight or bring attention to your stitches. Additionally, you can use decorative stitching or a straight stitch.

Ways to Add Topstitching to a Garment

Multi-line topstitching on a coat pocket (pink), topstitching on a shirt yolk (plaid) and topstitching on a jacket front (grey)

  • WHEN DO YOU USE IT?

    Topstitching is a wonderful and easy decoration! Use topstitching to show off seam lines or to draw attention to areas of the garment such as the pocket opening, collar or neckline.

    This line of stitching also has a lot of functions when sewing a garment.

    • Topstitching can strengthen seams, so it’s a great feature to add to clothing that will be heavily worn like jeans.
    • Additionally, it makes your fabric stiffer, which is great if you want to add structure to an area of the garment, such as a collar or waistband. Adding a topstitch around the edge of a waistband will stiffen it considerably and topstitching several rows through the middle will add even more stiffness.
    • Topstitching can also be used as a final sewing step of certain garment elements, like closing waistbands.
    • And, last but not least, for fast, visible hemming you can topstitch to secure your hem instead of handsewing.

  • TIPS + NOTES

    • When topstitching seams, you may prefer to topstitch first and then trim the seam allowances. That way your topstitching is going through all of the layers, and you’re only trimming off the extra.
    • Use a triple stitch with regular thread as an alternative to thick, topstitching thread. This is a special stitch option on some machines that sews over each stitch three times, so it’s extra thick.
    • To change the distance of your topstitching from the seam or fabric edge, and still use the presser foot edge as a guide, move the needle position. Just make note of where you’ve moved it so you can keep the topstitching consistent. We recommend taking a quick photo of your machine settings with your phone.
    • Topstitch coats and outerwear with a slightly longer stitch length for a professional look. We prefer a slightly shorter stitch length for topstitching dress shirts and blouses.

HOW TO TOPSTITCH

Sew a line of stitches with the right side of your garment facing up, making your stitching an equal distance from the edge or a seam.

We commonly use a 1⁄4" (6mm) seam allowance when sewing our topstitching line. This is close enough to the seam line to look clean and not too close that our topstitching disappears. 1⁄4" is often the width of the sewing machine’s presser foot, so it’s easy to maintain an even row of stitching by using the edge of the foot as a guide.

Depending on where the start and end points of your topstitching fall, you may want to backstitch or you may not want to. Backstitch if the end point is going to be hidden or covered by another seam. If the
end point is going to be visible, stitch in place to secure the end or pull the threads to the back and tie in a knot.

TOPSTITCHING A SEAM

To topstitch a seam, work from the right side of the garment. Pull the seam apart gently with your fingers, and line up your stitching with the seam line.

Align the seam line with the edge of your presser foot, and follow as you sew from start to finish.

Press the seam after topstitching.

TOPSTITCHING WITH TOPSTITCHING THREAD

To create topstitching with more impact, use a special, thick topstitching thread.

If you do, be sure to use a topstitching needle along with the thicker thread. These heavy-duty needles have an extra long eye for sewing with thicker topstitching thread or even with multiple threads. When setting up your machine, use the topstitching thread on the top, and a matching, regular thread in the bobbin.

Press after topstitching.

MULTI-LINE TOPSTITCHING

Multi-line topstitching adds even more definition to the design of your garment.

When planning to topstitch more than one row of stitches, always topstitch the most important side first. If the topstitching is holding the pocket in place or closing the opening on a waistband, that’s where the first row of stitching should be. Use the edge of your presser foot as a guide for sewing the second, decorative row of topstitching.

Depending on the piece you’re topstitching, it may look better to turn the piece to sew the second row, rather than stopping and starting. Patch pockets are an example of when it’s better to sew the first row close to the pocket edge, then pivot and sew a few stitches across the top of the pocket, then pivot again to sew the second row of topstitching.

TOPSTITCHING WITH A TWIN NEEDLE

A twin needle sews two rows of stitching at once. It looks like two separate needles that are joined together at the top, and it fits into your sewing machine just like a regular needle. To sew with a twin needle, you will have two spools of thread on the top of your machine and one bobbin thread. Where do you put the second spool? If your machine doesn’t have a place to put it, let it sit in a mug or bowl. It will bounce around while the thread unrolls, but thats ok. Thread both threads together as you would normally, and when you reach the needle, thread one thread through each side of the needle.

YOU CAN DO IT! MORE TIPS

Go slow. It’s not a race! No one will know how slowly you topstitched your seams, and we promise it's nice to have the extra control sewing slowly gives you when sewing stitches that are so highly visible.

Unsure of your topstitching skills or thread colour choice? Test on scrap fabric. Compare a couple of thread colours if your fabric is hard to match. Stitch a couple of rows with different colours of thread next to each other and pick your favourite.

Remember, lighter thread colours can look shiny and darker is better if you want the stitching to blend in.