Best Way to Sew a Patch Pocket

Patch Pocket - What is it?

Patch pockets are pockets sewn to the surface of a garment, like a patch.

Generally they are applied with stitching around the edges, but they can also be sewn on invisibly by hand. Patch pockets can be any shape. They are easy to sew and only require one piece of fabric!

If your pattern doesn’t have patch pockets included, it’s very easy to add your own.

Ways to Add Patch Pockets to a Garment

On the left, a patch pocket sewn to the lining of a jacket. On the right, two patch pockets sewn on a shirt front. Note, on a plaid fabric, we opted to cut the pockets on the diagonal. Not only does this add interest, it also avoided us needing to match the plaid design on the shirt to the pocket.

  • WHEN DO YOU USE IT?

    • Patch pockets are perfect when you want to add visible pockets to a garment. You’ll see patch pockets on blouses and dress shirts, suit jackets and coats, skirts, dresses and trousers. They draw attention to the area where they are located.
    • Patch pockets are great for embellishing, because you can add the embellishment to the pocket first, make sure you are happy with the look and then add it to the garment. Embroidery, appliqués or ribbon trim are all ways of embellishing a patch pocket.
    • Patch pockets are an easy pocket to add to the inside of your garments, too, as you’re simply sewing a piece of fabric to the lining. Make patch pockets out of contrast fabric or matching fabric.
    • For striped or plaid fabric, cut fabric for patch pockets diagonally for an interesting effect or matched to the lines of the garment so they’re barely visible.
    • Patch pockets can be added to a project after it is complete or removed without affecting the structure of the garment. You can place patch pockets symmetrically, on both sides of a garment, or place just one on the right side as a design detail.
    • Sew pockets with any stitching you'd like. Use contrast stitching, with
      one row of stitching or two, or with zigzag or decorative stitching.

HOW TO SEW PATCH POCKETS

Patch pockets can be sewn onto a garment at any time, but are easiest to sew before the garment is constructed. Sew pockets to
garment panels while they are still flat and you haven't yet started assembly.

Decide on pocket shape and size. For decorative pockets, they can be any size. For useable pockets, make sure you can put your hand in them!

Make pockets to fit specific items by measuring the item’s width and height and making the pocket’s dimensions slightly larger to fit the item. (Test the pocket size by making the piece, pinning it in place and placing the item in the pocket.)

DRAFT POCKET SHAPE INCLUDING SEAM ALLOWANCES

Draw your pocket shape on paper.

Add 5⁄8" (1.5cm) seam allowance around all of the edges except the pocket opening edge. For the pocket opening edge, add a seam allowance of 1 1⁄4" (3.2cm).

After completing your paper pattern piece, mark the 1 1⁄4" (3.2cm) line from the top opening edge as your fold line for the next step.

POCKET PREP

Cut out the pocket from fabric. Mark the fold line along the pocket opening by either hand basting along the fold line or clipping the seam allowance at each end of the fold line.

Finish the top edge - serge, turn under 1⁄4" (6mm) and stitch, zigzag or
bind the edge.

FINISHING THE TOP EDGE OF YOUR POCKET

Fold down the top opening edge along the fold line, toward the front of the pocket, right sides together. No need to press this fold as we'll be flipping it towards the wrong side of the pocket soon.

Starting your seam at the fold, stitch from the top opening edge down to the end of your folded layer on both the right and left side of the pocket using a 5⁄8" (1.5cm) seam allowance.

Trim across the corners and trim the stitched seam allowance in half.

CREATING THE POCKET SHAPE

Turn the top edge right side out. Use a point turner to make your corners sharp and press along the top opening edge, maintaining your 1 1⁄4" (3.2cm) fold.

For all remaining pocket edges, press each edge towards the wrong side 5⁄8".

If desired, topstitch along the pocket opening edge.

For curved edges, run a row of basting stitches around the corner, and pull basting threads to ease in this edge.

ATTACHING YOUR POCKET

Position the pocket on the garment and pin at right angles to the stitching line, with the heads on your right. If needed, press the garment piece if necessary to remove wrinkles.

Edgestitch the pocket in place.

To edgestitch your pocket easily, line up the folded pocket edge with the groove of the presser foot as you sew. When you reach the corner, slow down and stitch until you are one stitch length away from the corner. Stop with the needle down and lift the presser foot. Pivot your work and lower the presser foot. The work should be lined up for you to edgestitch along the next edge. If it’s too far away, turn your work back and take a half stitch toward the corner, then pivot again.

To sew around curves, sew slowly and gently turn your work around the curve, without stopping and lifting the foot. You may want to shorten your stitch length for the pocket stitching to make it easier to sew around the curves.

OPTIONAL: ADD TOPSTITCHING

Topstitch with a second row of stitching if desired. When you reach the end point, sew across the top of the pocket for three or four stitches, then pivot again and topstitch parallel to the first row of edgestitching.

When you reach the opposite corner with your second row of stitching, pivot at the top edge, sew across the top for three or four stitches and stop once you reach your starting point. Stitch in place to secure your thread.

OPTIONAL: ADD STRENGTH

Sew bar tacks at corners of pockets for extra
strength.

As an alternative to bar tacks, sew triangular tacks. Sew across for a few stitches, then sharply angle your stitching to meet the edgestitching about 1⁄2" (1.3cm) down from the top edge. Repeat on both corners.

YOU CAN DO IT!

Go slow. It’s not a race! No one will know how slowly you edgestitched your pocket, and we promise it's nice to have the extra control sewing slowly gives you when sewing stitches that are visible.